Future of RMG labour

IN BANGLADESH, the collapse of Rana Plaza in 2013 is remembered as a black day, and the tragedy continues to haunt those who survived it. Before engaging with the study of human rights, I too viewed the collapse largely as an accident, a catastrophic failure of a building that should never have...

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2025 December 23 . 7:29 AM

2 min read

In this image there are few people on the road in which some of them are standing at the bicycles,... — In this image there are few people on the road in which some of them are standing at the bicycles, a shop where there are few objects placed on the table, trees, tents, few banners attached to the shed, vehicles and the grass.

Future of RMG labour

Bangladesh’s garment industry faces renewed pressure to reform as the European Union’s new sustainability rules take effect. The Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive demands that major brands address human rights and environmental risks across their supply chains. Yet, without stronger enforcement and fairer buying practices, experts warn that past tragedies like the Rana Plaza collapse could repeat themselves.

The 2013 Rana Plaza disaster, which killed over 1,100 workers, exposed deadly flaws in Bangladesh’s garment sector. Investigations later revealed that profit-driven supply chains had prioritised cost-cutting over safety. While factory inspections improved after the collapse, weak enforcement and persistent subcontracting loopholes left workers vulnerable.

Global brands have since faced scrutiny over their role in sustaining poor conditions. H&M, a major buyer, began publishing supplier lists in 2013 and partnered with UNICEF to combat child labour. Yet, fast-fashion pricing models continue to squeeze Bangladeshi suppliers, making it harder to fund safety upgrades or pay fair wages. Bangladesh’s interim government has ratified key International Labour Organisation conventions, but activists argue these steps mean little without commercial accountability. The upcoming Labour (Amendment) Ordinance, 2025, must be translated into Bangla and shared widely with workers to ensure transparency. Meanwhile, the EU’s directive could force brands to disclose full supply chains and factor human rights into pricing—if properly enforced. For years, successive Bangladeshi governments delayed labour law reforms, shielding factory owners from strict oversight. Now, the responsibility shifts to global retailers to embed ethical standards into contracts, end unmonitored subcontracting, and engage directly with worker unions.

The EU’s new rules offer a chance to close gaps between legal promises and on-the-ground realities. For change to take hold, brands must absorb the cost of fair wages and safe working conditions. Without this shift, Bangladesh’s garment workers will remain at risk—despite years of reform efforts.

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