Chanel & Dior Appoint New Creative Directors Focused on Brands Over Fame
The luxury fashion world is witnessing a shift in power dynamics. Chanel and Dior have appointed new creative directors, Matthieu Blazy and Jonathan Anderson respectively, who are set to debut their collections in Paris. Unlike their predecessors, these designers prioritize the brands over personal fame, marking a departure from the era of star designers.
Matthieu Blazy, formerly of Bottega Veneta, will showcase his first collection for Chanel on October 6, 2023, in Paris. Meanwhile, Jonathan Anderson's Paris debut for Dior is yet to be announced. Both designers have kept a low profile, fiercely protecting their private lives and maintaining a minimal presence in the media and on social media. This trend is echoed by Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela, Michael Rider at Celine, and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, who also focus on the brand rather than personal stardom. Pierre Groppo, head of fashion and lifestyle at Vanity Fair France, describes this phenomenon as 'the good students' season, where the brands will take center stage, not the designers.
The luxury sector's slowdown in demand and protectionist challenges have led brands to focus on creating more value and legitimacy. Anderson and Blazy's appointments signal a move away from designers who were once 'entities above the brands', as noted by Adrien Communier, head of the fashion section at GQ France. Both designers have proven track records, with Anderson's success at Loewe and JW Anderson, and Blazy's impact at Bottega Veneta. They are known for their focus on the product and intelligent craftsmanship, with an artistic vision rooted in the long term.
The appointments of Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel mark a strategic shift in the luxury fashion industry. These designers, known for their cultural sensitivity, technical prowess, and focus on the brand, are expected to deliver strong creative vision and concrete financial results. The era of star designers may be waning, but the future of luxury fashion looks promising under the stewardship of these 'good students'.
